Soif

Last week I had a fantastic meal at Soif ("thirsty" in French - they have a good-looking wine list), a new restaurant on Battersea Rise, which is a few minutes walk from Clapham Junction. The place looked very low-key from the outside (so much so that we walked past it at first!), but once inside it had a great atmosphere, with the menu freshly chalked up on the wall, smiling staff, and a busy kitchen.

When I saw bouillabaisse on the menu, I just had to have it. The soup was lovely and rich and full of fishy flavour, just like it should be. It was served with a delicious rouille, crispy croutons, and Gruyère to sprinkle on top, which gave a lovely melted cheese texture. My bowl was absolutely spotless when I'd finished!

For mains, I had a very rustic-looking hake dish. It came with chickpeas, which gave an earthy undertone to the flavour and highlighted that taste in the fish itself. There was also a superb Romesco sauce, which added a wonderful nutty and and slightly garlic finish to a very tasty plate.

I was very impressed with the quality of everything I ate, and also the generous helping and friendly waiters. I'd recommend giving it a visit, even if just to try the bouillabaisse!

They don't get have a website since it only recently opened, but contact details are: 27 Battersea Rise, SW11 1HG. Tel: 0207 223 1112)

Damian Allsop Chocolate Workshop

I had a fantastically fun, educational, and tasty morning at a chocolate workshop this morning, run by Damian Allsop, the producer of CH₂OCOLATES. He specialises in chocolates made with a water-based ganache, which he discovered helps to bring out and retain the flavours of the chocolate - and his creations really are superb. I'm snacking delightfully on my going-home-present, a bag full of a selection of different chocs, despite greedily stuffing my face with the stuff earlier!

But, of course I didn't just spend the whole time eating, I also learnt a lot, as did the other amateurs (chocolate-lovers) at the workshop (perhaps apart from my omniscient mum!). First, Damian gave an enticing introduction to the production of chocolate, from the picking of the fruit pod (which surprisingly grows on the trunk of the tree since it's too heavy to be hanging off the sides), to the extremely important but often overlooked fermentation, to drying, roasting, and finally manufacturing. As well as the scientific side, we saw some beautiful pictures of the cacao beans, still with their multicoloured hard outer skin, and then the smaller inside beans covered in a white pulp, followed by examples of the processes involved in refining the bean.

After the food-history lesson, it was time for the taste test. We started off with a fairly average supermarket-quality dark chocolate which we decided was a bit too bitter, had no fruity notes, and the different flavours weren't smoothly connected which made it unpleasant to eat. We moved up the scale, starting to get hints of fruits like tangerines, and arrived at Original Beans Cru Virunga, which was full of cherry flavours and a mouth-watering acidity, which lingered in the mouth.

Suitably warmed up, we watched Damian give a demo of making a chocolate mousse, before having a go ourselves. To get the consistency that would normally come from cream, we thickened the water with xanthan gum (a thickening agent), before combining this with our melted Cru Virunga, and folding this into a meringue mixture. Of course, being true professions, we didn't opt for the super-fast and easy electric whisk to transform liquid egg white into fluffy meringue. Nope, instead we used the good ol'fashioned hand one -  which I have to admit I slightly regretted after my arm almost fell off from exhaustion (despite whisking tips from the expert, Damian). We then left this to set in the fridge for a few hours, after a quick taster! Another group also added in a raspberry sauce to the milk-chocolate recipe, which gave it a great extra kick.

Damian showed us how to make liquorice financiers (cake), and fruit jellies (no gelatin, just a vegetable gelling agent and xanthan) as well, which were a great accompaniment to our mousses, and were fantastic topped off with spicy ginger crisps, and served immaculately in the shape of a cacao pod!

Finally, we tried everything, all in different combinations, to find which we enjoyed the most. I particularly liked the little liquorice cakes, topped with my chocolate mousse, and the apricot sauce! The whole session was thoroughly enjoyable, most definitely worth the 7 O'clock Saturday morning start, and 2 hour journey each way! Thank you Damian!

The Grill Restaurant at The Dorchester

I just got back from a wonderful evening at The Grill Restaurant at The Dorchester. The setting of the restaurant, at the grand hotel is very impressive, with gold and chandeliers blooming on the ceiling. Inside the restaurant, however, the décor had a slightly strange Scottish theme, with tartan all over the place, but it had a lovely charming atmosphere. My mum and I had a chat with Brian Hughson, the very friendly and passionate Head Chef, talking about how important it is for him to source his game and fish (the restaurant prides itself on it's game, [the meat not the amusement!]) from people who he knows, and is sure that they really care about what they do ...

... and it certainly showed! I had some delicious food. I particularly enjoyed my main. It was the best halibut that I've had for a long long time - crispy and crunchy skin, delicate flaky flesh, and thoroughly flavoursome. Accompanying it was some crispy fried squid for an extra crunch, some cute little anchovies. As well as some tasty potatoes, pickled in lemon which gave an extra depth to their flavour and complimented the fish well, and sprinkles of some groovy-looking purple cauliflower. Oh, and how could I forget?, parmesan custard. Now that's a good idea!



My starter was delicious too:  stunningly presented Aldwych goat's cheese in brik pastry, with potatoes, a sorbet made from crème fraiche and a herby sauce. The cheese rolls were great, with a definitive intense flavour which was topped off with a little shaving of parmesan. I thought the sauce was yummy as well, especially with those potatoes and sorbet!



It's probably going to sound like I'm really greedy if I talk about another course, but I'll do it anyway. This was marinaded scallops, something I've never tried before. They were very different to seared scallops, like I'm used to, and quite nice, but I think I'd prefer them just lightly cooked, because I couldn't really taste the delicate flavour, more the marinade. Also with the dish was deep fried oyster! Despite being not too keen on oyster, I thought this was very tasty, because that usually very strong taste of the sea was more subtle, and the texture was less ... slimy. The scallop crackling was also pretty cool, especially since I normally wouldn't have crackling (it's normally made from pork!).



My mum had some game, obviously, but unfortunately I'm a pescetarian so it's not really my thing, but she asked me to take photos of what she had, so here they are (I think it's grouse):

For dessert, I tried a very fruity berry jelly, with a refreshing buttermilk sorbet - a perfect finish to a fantastic meal!

So Restaurant

A few days ago I went to So Restaurant to enjoy my favourite food of all time: sushi. With so many Japanese restaurants around now, it's difficult to find one that really hits the spot, but the sushi here was so (pun intended) good.

There was a special 'pre-theatre menu' that I chose, which was perfect prior to seeing a dazzling performance by The Flying Karamazov Brothers, full of juggling, music, comedy ... anyway you want to hear about the food.

The tuna was absolutely fantastic, very fresh and clear tasting, with a light texture on perfectly cooked rice. The uramaki (inside-out rolls) tasted great too, although I had to add some wasabi - not hot enough for my taste-buds!

The miso soup I tried was great: not too salty , not too sweet, but a good balance. Lovely and refreshing.

On the generous set menu too was a mixed tempura. I was particularly impressed with the prawn tempura, which had a beautiful, almost scallop-like texture, together with a tweet flavour and crisp batter. I liked the inclusion of ocra in the vegetable selection, which I hadn't tried as tempura before, but I think it went very well. Accompanying the original tentsuyu dipping sauce was the restaurant's own creation of a piquant, pleasantly spicy, and slightly citrus sauce.

Overall, a fantastic meal and I hope to return as often as possible!

Cantinetta, Dean Street Townhouse, & Maltby Street Market

Despite not being in Puglia after dramatically missing our flight, we've still managed to have a delightfully foodie week. Even, a very Italian one.

On Thursday night, I went to Cantinetta, where I had some great Italian food!

I tried some salmon and sea bass carpaccio, with a strawberry vinegar dressing. I found this too acidic and overpowering, which was a shame since I couldn't taste the delicate fish.

Also as antipasta, I had some burrata with sun dried tomatoes. The cheese was wonderfully creamy, but not too runny, which was great. The tomatoes were full of flavour and went really well with the buratta.

I had some great prawns in a lovely rich garlicy sauce, with some crisp bread.

Following the seafood theme, I tasted some scallops with endive salad. The scallops were amazing because they had only been very briefly seared, so tasted very fresh.

For my main, I had a seafood risotto, which was delicious! The rice had a good bite to it, maybe slightly too much of a bite, but it was quite creamy, and fishy which was nice. I liked the chopped herbs in it.

My mum had lobster spaghetti, which was of course indulgently rich, with soft and flavoursome meat and al dente pasta.

I also had some delicious fried courgette as a chip-substitute, which were lovely and crispy.

Yesterday afternoon, I visited Dean Street Townhouse for a spot of afternoon tea. I chose some buttered crumpets, which I hadn't had for ages, so it was a nice treat. I also had some scones with clotted cream and lovely strawberry and raspberry jam - delicious!

Finally, today I visited Maltby Street Market - sort of a close (in location and food quality) rival to the incredibly well known but slightly too touristy Borough Market. It was a bit more of a trek from London Bridge, but definitely worth it. We got there a bit late (it starts shutting down at around 2pm), but bought some fantastic 17 month comte from the Borough Cheese Company, which is aged in a fort in eastern-France. I also went to Niel's Yard Dairy, where I tried some cheese called St John, which had a great tangy flavour, and was quite smelly and creamy.

From the South of France to Balham ... Hildreth Street Market

Having spent the past week in the South of France near Marseillan, sailing past oyster beds with a passionate French sailor qui s'appelle Albert, munching on some tielles (a delicious local delicacy from Sète, a slightly spicy and very fishy pie of octopus and tomato), scoffing home-made bouillabaisse ("all-in" fish soup) with its accompanying aioli, and frying fresh squid in garlic and chilli before feasting on it with a squeeze of lime, it came as more than a little shock to arrive back last night to rainy England.

However, I was not to despair, since this morning (albeit through the pounding rain) we went to sniff out Hildreth Street Market in homely Balham - perhaps hoping for a somewhat nearer equivalent to "Les Halles"! It was actually pretty good: there was an organic vegetable stall (Wild Country Organics) selling some quite obscure varieties of vegetable like sorrel, ridge cucumbers, cute yellow courgettes, and also a great, peppery mixed salad which I tried for lunch.

To accompany the salad (or was it the other way round?!) I had some paella, scooped up from one of those big dishes which was bubbling away a few moments before, with an assortment of squid, prawns, mussels and that lovely fragrant rice.

Another stall which jumped out was Ms Cupake's: "The Naughtiest Vegan Cakes in Town". I tried a great vegan Mediterranean vegetable scone. The ex-primary-school-teacher, Ms Cupcake hereslf, was wonderfully lively and enthusiastic, whose main aim isn't just to cater for vegans like herself but allow everyone to "enjoy great cakes". Having enjoyed her savoury scone very much, I'm sure I'll be popping into the bakery in Brixton to satisfy my sweet tooth.

Balham might not quite be the sunny paradise that is Southern France, but it's not far off with its food.

Pollen Street Social

For my birthday yesterday I was lucky enough to be taken to Pollen Street Social for a treat of a lunch. Jason Atherton opened his new restaurant just a few months ago, but it was packed with people, and had a great atmosphere, so it really lived up to its (social) name!

The food (as I was expecting after my mum told me that Jason had worked for the legendary, if slightly bonkers, Ferran Adrià at his restaurant elBulli in Spain which won The World's 50 Best three years running before Noma) was exceptional.

To start, I had a very interesting dish, which was like a reversal of a squid risotto. The squid has been prepared into rice-sized cuts, and combined with a cauliflower sauce as the rice base. Meanwhile, the squid was replaced with deceptive crispy clusters of rice, which were coated in squid ink, for a great crunch. Even the cauliflower was reminiscent of squid with its florets stretching out like tentacles. The brown sauce which accompanied the 'risotto' was an intense juice of roasted squid which, combined with the salty samphire, really painted a picture of the sea in my mouth.

Sticking with the seafood theme, for my mains I opted for some black bream, which is a beautifully flavoursome fish, and was wonderfully cooked with a crispy skin and moist flesh. It was quite possibly the most delicious fish I've ever had ... a taste difficult to describe but hard to forget. With the gambas, and prawn froth, alongside an earthy sauce (not sure what it was, but it tasted like mushrooms, possibly chestnut mushrooms), and tender asparagus, it was a perfect main.

Before dessert, we went to sit up at the dessert bar, where we could see our puds being impeccably prepared, from painting plates with one slick swish of a brush to pumping delicate foams from a thermo whip and topping with various herbs and sauces. Well, I chose the odd-sounding tomato and strawberry gazpacho with black olive ice cream and sweetbread. The sweet gazpacho and crispy bread contrasted well with the more salty ice cream, which tasted so strongly of olive that I could hardly believe it! Accompanied by the unbeatable fraises de bois (wild strawberries), this was a fantastic dessert.

A combination of a lively atmosphere, interesting modern art, chatty chefs, and of course scrumptious food make Pollen Street Social somewhere I hope to go back to!

North Road - Noma in London?

Last night, I had a delicious meal at North Road in Farringdon. The chef, Christoffer Hruskova, from Denmark, cooked up some fantastic dishes, perhaps inspired by the success of René Redzepi's Nordic restaurant in Copenhagen, Noma.

We were greeted by very welcoming staff, and a minimal but tasteful interior, with intriguing lights that reminded me of astronaut helmets!

As hors d'oeuvre, we were presented with a highly Noma-esque smoked quails egg, in a large egg shell. I have to admit I was somewhat disappointed with my first taste of North Road, since the eggs were cold and vinegary like they'd been preserved, as opposed to the hot melting, served over the still warm hay equivalent at Noma. My disappointment quickly vanished however, when I tried the smoked cheese and radish appetizer, beautifully presented on crispy bread, and topped with my favourite herb, dill! It was wonderfully light, and subtly smoky, with a soft crunch from the thinly-sliced radishes - deeelish.

For my starter I chose pickled mackerel, with nettles and horseradish. The mackerel on its own was lovely and yielding and just vinegary enough for my liking! I adored the horseradish 'snow', which had a really intensely pungent taste. Although, I wasn't too keen on the burnt hay covered fish, as I think it was too charcoaly, and the texture was strangely oozy, which put me off somewhat.

My main course was absolutely fantastic! I had monkfish tail and cheek, with Kent broad beans, St George mushrooms, delicious sauce made from intense (I think chestnut) mushrooms, and different greens, including samphire. The dish looked like something you might find on a forest floor, with different shades of green and brown, and tasted wonderfully earthy as well. The fish had a great, giving texture, whilst being wonderfully crispy on the outside. I loved the flavoursome mushrooms, and accompanying sauce, and the greens had great sweet and citrus tastes.

Finally, for dessert, I opted for the interesting sounding birch ice-cream and nettle 'snow'. The ice-cream was gently woody, with subtle vanilla undertones, and the nettle 'snow', which looked bizarrely like moss was in fact lovely and refreshing.

Altogether, it's a great restaurant, with exciting and scrumptious food - almost on par with Noma, and certainly easier to get to for me!

Locanda Locatelli

I enjoyed a delicious lunch at Locanda Locatelli today. It was my first visit to Giorgio's restaurant since I was much younger, when I went to make ice-creams; I can hardly remember it. However, today's meal was a great reminder of truly fantastic Italian cuisine.

I was completely blown away by the gnocchi with morel mushrooms. There will definitely be no substitute for these delicately light gnocchi, made with King Edward potatoes, with their exceptionally light and fluffy texture. Of course the morels were incredibly rich and intense, and their earthly flavour in the sauce went really well with the potato gnocchi.

For my starter, I had some burrata with grilled vegetables, and topped with roasted almonds. The burrata, which is made in a similar way to mozzarella (although is much more runny!), had a refreshing creamy taste and texture. The buttery flavour was great with the soft, grilled courgette, and onion, and crunchy roasted almonds.

I had to opt for sorbet for dessert on such a hot day, so I tried three different sorbets: apricot & passion fruit, apple, and raspberry. They were all delicious, and not too sweet. I especially like the apple, which was very subtle - the apricot & passion fruit was also lovely and exotic.

The restaurant look great as well, I especially liked the glass panels with yellow streaks curling down, which reminded me of tagliatelle pasta! The staff were really kind, and well humoured!

Chocolate Festival and Meza

I had a fun day yesterday, starting at the Chocolate Festival at the Southbank. It's on until Sunday in the square behind the Royal Festival Hall, and there's some great chocolate to taste and buy along with some interesting talks from the people behind the chocolate.

I popped along to do a quick shift behind Original Beans' stall, explaining what I knew about the origins of the bars, the rare Porcelena cocoa beans (named after its white appearance similar to that of porcelain), and the inspiring ethos - a bar plants a tree! It was great fun, and I enjoyed meeting people who knew and were interested in finding out about chocolate. Just before the event started to wind down for the evening, I popped round to have a peek at the other stalls and tried Damien Allsop's mini egg which had a delicious salty caramel filling. He's a great chocolatier who's speciality is water-based ganache, and I love his raspberry chocopop with crackling space dust!

Then, in the evening we visited The Modern Pantry Pop-up at Meza, where I enjoyed the fresh and exciting cooking of Anna Hansen. The menu was really interesting, and everything sounded sensational. I opted for the salmon sashimi to start. The organic fish was so fresh and had a lovely clean taste, and the dressing made from truffled umeboshi, which is a sour fruit, wonderfully complimented and accented the citrus yuzu (a Japanese fruit) and the texture of the crunchy flying fish roe (or tobiko) was great.

For mains I tried the roast butternut squash, tofu and leek filled inari (pouches made from an omelette-like mixture), with crispy walnuts and wild rice, and a salty miso broth. It was a very earthy dish, quite different from my starter, and it had a great rustic sense, but was also highly voluptuous, with a deep aroma and soft-hard textures.

Finally to finish I had the salted coconut tapioca with a green tea and chocolate mouse, with mango, passion fruit and a coconut wafer. I'm not completely sure why I chose this, because I'm not a great fan of green tea, but I liked the crunchy passion fruit with the sweet coconut, and the crispy wafer.

All in all a delightful day, and a delicious meal!

Bennett Oyster Bar & Brasserie

I had a great evening last night at the "friends and family" pre-opening evening at Bennett Oyster Bar & Brasserie (which opens fully on 8th March). Ray, who owns the restaurant was charmingly welcoming and so too were his 1950s-clad waiters. The music was upbeat and jolly, and there was a great atmosphere.

The bread, which they made there, and served in cute little flower pots which reminded me of René Redzepi's flowerpot dish, was delicious - really fluffy and light.

I was very impressed with my starter, the red mullet soup with Gruyère, rouille and croutons. It was a really rich, deep red colour, and the fishy taste matched that intensity - exactly what you want with a fish soup. The rouille, which is made from garlic and olive oil, gave a good kick to the soup, and the saffron flavour was nice and piquant. Together with the crunchy croutons, and one of my favourites cheeses to sprinkle on top and watch melt, I was wary of sharing it!

For mains, I had pollock, which is a great alternative for cod and is much more sustainable, and probably tastier as well, especially how this was done. It had a crusty top, and was cooked perfectly through, so it flaked away easily. The potatoes could have been more crispy, but they tasted fine. I loved the mustard velouté - the velvety and creamy sauce went well with both the fish and the potatoes.

Finally, after two delicious courses came dessert. I was hardly ready for the generous portion of sticky toffee pudding! Unfortunately, it wasn't served quite warm enough and I found it a bit dense, but I liked the toffee sauce, rich and sugary, of course, and the vanilla ice cream was fine.

So, all in all, a very impressive meal, especially for only their second evening running. And I'm sure I'll be going back, if just to try their other fish soups, and maybe even to taste some of their other produce which they sell, like fresh fruit & veg, and home-baked bread and cakes.

Fox and Grapes

Tonight, I had a pleasant evening at the Fox and Grapes pub in Wimbledon. (It was a bit of a schlep from the station, so we hopped in a cab on the way there, but some very friendly local foodies escorted us safely back!)

The pub is the work of Claude Bosi, owner of the 2 Michelin-starred restaurant Hibiscus known for its sophisticated avant-garde cuisine, but in this new adventure, the chef has chosen to go for a touched-up take on British pub food.

I thought that the food was reasonably good, and certainly worth the visit. I started off with a wintry salad which included beetroot, goats cheese, chicory and blood orange. It was elegantly presented in a spiral-type shape, with a wonderful array of colours. I loved the creamy cheese, which seamlessly contrasted with the crunchy caramelised walnuts. The beetroot, as well as leaking a rich red sauce, tasted good with the salad leaves. The citrus lift from the blood orange also added well to the delicious salad. This was my favourite part of the meal.

For mains, expecting the lack of vegetarian-friendly options, I opted for the winter vegetable hot pot, following my wintry trend. I like the rustic serving in the heavy metal pot, and the crispy potatoes crusted on the roof were fantastic, although what came inside was slightly disappointing. Although it was very wholesome, and hearty, I didn't think the dish was very special, and would much rather delve into a Ducasse Le Cookpot instead!

In comparison, I thought that the desert was great. I indulged myself with a rich, intense, and scrumptious treacle and pecan tart. The nutty flavour was quite subtle, but still very much eminent, the pastry just the right thickness and crunchiness, and the treacle of course was devilishly sugary!

My only real criticism would have to be the service, which although fast, was very un-engaging, with our waitress whisking away our food, with an over-enthusiastic 'awesome!', regardless of our answer to her inquiry as to whether we were enjoying our meal. Perhaps they could learn something from Michel's recent television program, 'Michel Roux's Service'!

Aside from this, it was all in all a good evening, and worth a visit.

Pham Sushi

I had a great evening on Friday, after a slightly rushed tube journey to the Barbican, where I tucked into some delicious sushi at Pham Sushi, before seeing some extraordinary mime at the Barbican Theatre - Du Goudran et des Plumes.

I'd never heard of Pham Sushi before, but it had some great food, and was just tucked away a road or two from The Barbican Centre.

We started off with some nigiri - sea bream, mackerel, ebi (sweet prawn), and toro (fatty tuna). They were all great, especially the mackerel, which had a great texture and subtle taste, and the sweet prawn, which was deliciously sweet. The fatty tuna was slightly disappointing - a bit chewy, but the rice was fantastic. It was both sweet and acidic, and of perfect stickiness!

The tempura was also lovely, with a light batter, and tasty veg and prawns. I wasn't particularly impressed with the nasu dengaku (miso and aubergine), which was a bit soggy, and although the presentation of the hot dishes was poor (we went to the bar, so they took the hot dishes from the main restaurant in foil boxes, and served them as that), the soup made up for it.

I had the vegetable tempura soup, with soba noodles, absolutely fantastic. The broth had a great tang to it, and the soba noodles, which I normally don't have (ramen are my favourite), went very well. All in all, it was a lovely meal, and I'll certainly consider going back next time I go to the Barbican.

As for the play, that was also fantastic! The best piece of theatre I've seen for a while, certainly. The skill and acrobats were marvellous - it was even tiring to watch! I also admired the symbolism of human impact on the Earth, and the sounds were gripping and intense!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

I've had a very tasty last couple of weeks, starting off of course with Christmas lunch. As a vegetarian, I didn't have any of the traditional turkey, but chose a recipe from the BBC Good Food website, and made it into more of a tart. It was delicious, especially with crunchy pecan nuts on top! We also decided to not opt for the traditional Christmas cake, instead experimenting with a quite ambitious Chocolate bombe, which consisted of home-made "cheat's" fruity ice cream (frozen cream) surrounded by beautifully buttery brioche bread and enrobed in dark chocolate! Very tough to cut, but also tough to beat!

On New Year's Day, feeling adventurous, I gave my mum a quick crash-course in rolling maki sushi, while she created a delicious aubergine dish from the Nobu cookbook. The sushi was delicious, with fresh tuna and salmon from our local fishmonger's - Moxon's. Unfortunately (or not, depends how you look at it...) I cooked WAY too much rice, and after determining to finish it whilst at its freshest, I could hardly move! The baked aubergine with bonite and dashi ponzu was also a great success. I particularly loved the way that the bonito flakes danced around on the hot aubergine!

Another recent great meal was a squash, ricotta, and sage lasagne, which finished with a wonderful crispy top, which was great to crunch through, and the combination of squash, ricotta and sage was certainly something to try again.

And just this evening, I was delighted by a lovely savoury tart tatin, with goat's cheese, caramelised red onions and chestnut mushrooms in puff pastry. It was so yummy that we polished it off before I could take a photograph! The mushrooms were great in the tart, and not something that I would normally associate with one.